Archives For OUR HOME

Picture Frames Roundup

August 11, 2011

At $4.99 a pack these are hard to beat! Target currently has these in red, turquoise, majenta, green and silver. They only seem to offer these during the "back to school" months, so stock up now. These will probably go in Maisie's room. I have some artwork that is waiting to be framed.Â

I was at Target yesterday and I saw that they have some of my favorite frames in stock again. So I thought I would do a little round up of some of my favorite frames. Picture frames run the gamut of inexpensive to really expensive. Over the years I have had custom frames made, bought lots of stock frames and picked up old frames. Nowadays I try to stock up when I see them on sale. For the mattes I tend to use a combination of standard ones, cut my own w/ an exacto or my matte cutter (which never comes out as nice as I would like), or if it is a nicer piece of art I have my local art store cut it for me. I also recommend picking up a roll of acid free mounting tape designed for hanging prints. It is sticky but not too sticky and it shouldn’t leave a yellow mark on your artwork. I have a roll that I bought about 15 years ago at Pearl. I still pull it out for all of framing. I also recommend getting acid free mattes if it is nicer piece of art that you don’t want to degrade over time.

Here are the places where I normally pick up my frames:

The RIBBA Frame from Ikea.Â

Ikea:

Pros: Inexpensive simple white, black and wood frames. Also they are now offering acid free matting, which is nice for the long term preservation of your artwork. I have used countless numbers of RIBBA Frames over the years.

Cons: Non-standard American sizes, which means you almost always have to cut the mat. Also I wish that they had a couple of other medium sizes. Often I can’t find one that is a good size for what I am framing. The other thing that I hate about their frames is the tabs on the back. They are a pain to bend back and forth. I use a flathead screwdriver, but it still is annoying, especially if you need to do any adjusting. Jenny from Little Green Notebook had a great post about using a standard Ikea frame and painting the piece of paper behind the matte to give it a custom look.

Micaels Frame & Standard White Matte in our Dining Room (print is by Matte Stephens)

Michaels:

Pros: The Michaels by us has a very good selection of frames in all different sizes, I can almost always find a frame that will work. I also think that in general their quality is pretty good. They also sell standard mattes in different colors that will fit a lot of the frames they offer. I haven’t tried this service, but you can pick out a standard frame and they will matte your artwork in it fairly inexpensively and in a short period of time.

Cons: You will want to wait for a sale. Fortunately they have lots of 50% off sales and they sometimes have coupons as well.  So with a good sale you can get a pretty reasonable price.

Target:

Pros: They have some nice simple frames. They also offer some really fun colorful frames both in solid and patterns (which I haven’t found anywhere else).

Cons: Most of the time their frames are priced okay, but not as inexpensive as Michael’s on sale, but in the fall they usually offer packs of their RE Frames (Room Essentials). These are only available in the store. Our store currently has them on an end cap near the back to school stuff.

Frame from a Salvage store w/ custom matte and low reflective glass installed at our local frame shop (print is by Tim Biskup)

Thrift Stores & Garage Sales:

We bought my favorite frame at an architectural salvage store in Philadelphia. It was cheap and I love the patina. We then had glass installed and a custom matte made at our local frame shop.

Pros: INEXPENSIVE!

Cons: A lot of the time you need to paint the frames and you may need to get a custom matte made to fit the frame. Requires spending some time hunting down a deal.

Custom Frame and Matte w/ low reflection glass (print is by Tim Biskup)

Custom Frame Store:

Pros: A perfectly sized frame and matte! Plus they typically even install the wire on the back, so all you need to do is pick it up. You can also order what ever color matte you want and choose low reflective or protective glass.

Cons: Custom frames are expensive! They can also take a while to finish it (while they wait for the frame and matte to be delivered and then cut and fit). Definitely worth shopping around for a place you feel comfortable with and that offers a good selection of frames and mattes.

The Beadboard Ceiling!

1990s Drop Ceiling (& Kitchen) Before

1950s Ceiling Covered up by 1990s Drop Ceiling

Florescent Light (installed in 1990s drop ceiling) and 1950s Ceiling Above

The beadboard ceiling is finally finished at Andi & Neil’s house! I haven’t seen it in person but from the photos that Andi sent me yesterday it looks lovely!

This is now the 4th ceiling that this kitchen has seen.

The History of the Ceiling:

1890s: Plaster Ceiling

1950s: Glued on 12×12 acoustic tiles with interesting turquoise crown molding

1990s: Drop 2×4 Acoustic Ceiling (with 2×4 Florescent Light Fixture): Dropping the ceiling by about 9″ in height (I don’t know what people were thinking when they did this!)

2011: Painted Beadboard and Beam Ceiling

Historically Accurate?

I get asked questions about whether beadboard is historically accurate to a kitchen (or other rooms in the house). The answer is yes, but probably not as detailed as this one. Traditionally secondary spaces such as the kitchen and bathroom used less expensive materials and trim. For example in our kitchen (now dining room) they installed beadboard on the bottom 4′ of the wall. They also used plainer window and door trim but they still used a plaster ceiling.  They would not of installed nice “beams” or crown molding, instead they would have probably trimmed these spaces with a simple straight piece or no trim at all.  Around here, I haven’t seen a lot of beadboard kitchen ceilings, mostly plaster. It is probably a matter of what the local tradespeople at the time were in the habit of using.

Now that the kitchen is such an integral part of our lives, I think it makes sense to design it to the same level of finish as the rest of the house. I also think you should have a little fun with the design. There are too many boring drywall ceilings out there.

Up Next:

The contractors are scheduled to spackle the walls and sand the floor today. It is nice to start to see some finish work.

 

Ceiling & Drywall Progress: the first bay has the beadboard plywood installed & they have added drywall to the wall

Andi and Neil’s kitchen is still in the not so exciting to look at phase. The contractors should be there all week which is good news! The ceiling is partially done. They ran into a small hiccup, the the old florescent light that is providing temporary light is hooked into the old knob and tube wiring. They are getting ready to disconnect this, but the new lighting has not arrived yet. So they can’t finish the rest of the ceiling until the new lights arrive. Fortunately they should be here today (fingers crossed). They have installed the 1×8 trim piece around the top of the ceiling. I had them put this in to make sure any uneven wall conditions would be covered up. We will be adding 3 “beams” at approximately 4′ intervals. Not only will this provide visual interest but it will give us a place to seam the beadboard. Most beadboard paneling comes in 8′ lengths (although you can get longer 3/4″ thick pine beadboard pieces in up to 12′ lengths).  The kitchen is about 9 1/2′ wide (so we couldn’t run the beadboard in that direction). The 4 “bays” that are left are designed to have lights centered in them (except for the one over the fridge). We centered the bays such that the light over the sink could also be centered in the bay. It is always a little tricky to get the beadboard spacing right. Unless you have a perfectly symmetrical room you usually have to decide what takes precedence. In our Dining Room we centered the ceiling on the room (and the light fixture) but our windows were not centered on the room, so they don’t align with the ceiling. Andi & Neil’s case is similar. The door openings and opening to the sunroom don’t align with the panels but the lights will all look nicely centered in the ceiling.

The beams will be created out of a 2×4 and then covered with a 1×4 piece of mdf or poplar. Then crown molding will cover the sides. It is a pretty simple system that provides a lot of interest.

East Wall

West Wall

 
I stopped by Andi & Neil’s house yesterday to see how things were going (sorry about the photos being blurry, they were taken with my phone). We are now at the point in the renovation where things appear to slow. It is not that things aren’t happening but electrical work and prepping for the final surfaces is not very exciting to look at! The contractors were busy yesterday putting in the electric for the light fixtures and electrical outlets. They have also finished furring out the north wall where the stove will be, patched the floor and installed the plywood on the ceiling for the beadboard.  They were also finishing up some miscellaneous drywall patching. Next on the list is the beadboard/beam ceiling. Then comes paint (which there isn’t a whole lot of) and refinishing the floor. Then finally the cabinets can be put in.

Paint Samples on the Wall in our Bedroom

The winning paint swatch with the fabric samples for the curtain and chair.

In my case, it takes 6 gray paint samples and over a month to find the right one for our bedroom! Fortunately almost all of the paint sellers now sell little sample jars so I don’t have to feel bad about it. At $2.99 a pop, I am still out less than $20. And the winner is Behr Ultra Premium Plus in Classic Silver from Home Depot. Phew! I was beginning to think I was being too picky. For the last two samples I waited until my fabric samples arrived so I could use those for reference. I wanted the gray to be similar but slightly lighter. I definitely needed a cool gray rather than a more taupe warm gray, but a lot of the samples I came home with had a blue or purple undertone that I didn’t like.

I now have the urge to paint! Of course there is a lot to do before that, although I am thinking of painting a larger sample. I think that will make me feel better! On the list today is to go out to the garage and look at my Best panels to see which 4 I actually have. I took a quick peak yesterday and there is more red in them then I was expecting. hmmm…

 

Our Kitchen: Large hood w/ tile backsplash

So, you are thinking about embarking on a kitchen renovation. Where do you to begin?

When redesigning a kitchen, people ask me where do you start. I tell my clients that they should do a couple of things before moving forward:

1. Collect images you like of kitchens, appliances, details and colors.

These don’t have to be whole kitchens but understanding someone’s basic style is useful for developing a plan.

A good place to start are the brochures from different cabinet manufacturers and home magazines. Also look at your friends and family’s kitchens. What do you like? What don’t you like?

2. How do you use your Kitchen:

Do you cook a lot? What kind of food? Do you bake? Do you need a desk? What kind of maintenance are you willing to realistically perform? Do you have specific storage needs (i.e. cookbooks, display of special china, lots of pots and pans)?

Our Kitchen Plan

3. Develop a Plan:

This can include hiring a designer, drawing it yourself on graph paper or on a free program on a computer. You will need these dimensions to start developing an estimate and will help contractors to start to ballpark the cost.

Are you moving walls, plumbing and electric? Are you putting on an addition? Sometimes it is useful to hire an architect to help you see what your options are at the beginning. Sometimes I come in and offer “schematic design”. In this case I would show a customer a couple of options for different layouts. This way they could determine the scale of the project and get some rough numbers before proceeding with the detailed design. Then they could either proceed with the architect or designer or if it is straight forward, proceed with using a typical kitchen designer from a showroom.

This is also a good time to review your electrical & plumbing service to your house. Also whether you need to replace move windows and doors in the room.

4. Begin to Develop a Budget:

I know it is intimidating and hard (especially when you aren’t quite sure what you want) but having a rough budget (and especially a maximum number) is very important. I think it useful to think about what is most important to you. When we did our kitchen renovation we splurged on Soapstone countertops and saved by installing the cabinets and trim ourselves.

There are quite a few items to consider  when pricing out the cost of a kitchen.

-The Cabinets (these are typically the most expensive item and prices vary widely).
Flatpack ($): Ikea is usually one of the least expensive options (especially considering the pull out options that they offer)
Standard Size ($): Off the Shelf Cabinets. Home Depot & Lowes and other places sell these (usually very limited sizes, often good for a pantry or basement)
Semi Custom ($$-$$$): Kraftmaid, Martha Stewart for HD, Thomasville (I recommend comparing prices at HD, Lowes & your local kitchen place). These come in a large number of sizes with lots of options. The options typically add quite a bit to the price. Typically these units come in 3″ intervals, although you can sometimes customize for an additional fee.
Custom ($$$-$$$$): Either a local cabinet maker, a distributor or directly through a shop such as Crownpoint. This use to be a lot more expensive but lately I have been finding that some local cabinetmakers will match the price of a semi-custom kitchen. Also if you have a small or difficult layout sometimes it makes sense to use at least some custom cabinetry to get the most our of your space.  For islands it is often nice to have a higher quality product, since it is visible on all sides and it is nice to add furniture details.

The Counters (prices vary widely. typically templating and install is included in this price):
Plastic Laminate ($): Inexpensive and now come in lots of fun colors and more realistic faux finishes. The downside is that you can’t buff out scratches and it can get burn marks on it.
Wood ($-$$): Ikea offers a big selection at a good price but typically wood requires a lot of maintenance. I recommend a marine grade sealer if you are going to use it.
Solid Surface ($$-$$$):  (i.e. Corian). Scratches can be buffed out but it can get burn marks similar to plastic laminate.
-Quartz ($$$-$$$$): It can look like stone or have a more uniform appearance. It is hard like stone but does not require a sealer like stone does.
-Stone ($$$-$$$$$): Prices vary widely depending on the stone. Marble requires more upkeep than granite but both require periodic sealing.

The Appliances:
-Appliances vary widely in price. I recommend going to a showroom and seeing what you like. It is also a good think about what you really need. Is a good stove with a high heat burner important to you? Do you bake and need a really accurate electric oven? Do you need a giant fridge to hold all the food your kids eat?

-I recommend in most regular size kitchens sticking with a 30″ range, to maximize countertop space.

Sink & Faucet:
-These vary widely in price. Fortunately there are some reasonably priced models out there now if you look around. Would a second smaller sink help if you have two people cooking in the kitchen?

Lighting:
-Consider general lighting (typically overhead), spot lighting (i.e. over the sink), under cabinet lighting. I recommend using all three. Having multiple lighting sources is really important!

Flooring:
-Can you reuse your existing floor? If not there are lots of choices at all different prices from vinyl tile, to wood floors to tile. Typically I recommend installing the floors before the cabinets if possible. It means a lot less cutting for the installer and then if you ever change a cabinet out then you won’t need to patch the floor.

Contractor:
-Contractor fees vary widely. Typically includes, demolition, repair of walls, ceiling and floors, hanging of cabinets, installation of electric and plumbing. Also keep in mind the cost of extra materials, including drywall and trim. Typically I recommend getting 3 quotes.

Design Fees:
-Fees vary from free (a kitchen place will often develop a simple kitchen layout for free) to 10% or more. This totally depends on the scope of the project and how detailed you want the design to be.

Contingency (10-20% of the project):
-This is for the unknowns on the project. This is the money that you don’t tell you contractor about but keep for when something arises that wasn’t planned on. Typically the older the house the more you want to set aside.

5. Schedule &  Logistics:

Realistically how long are you willing to be without a kitchen? How much of a temporary kitchen do you need? Where are you going to cook while the renovation is happening? Where are you going to wash your dishes? Do you want to plan to be away during part of the construction (although then it is harder to keep an eye on the progress)?

When undertaking a major kitchen renovation you should plan to be without a kitchen for at least a month, often longer. A contractor can give you a rough schedule, but you should plan for an extra couple of weeks.  Think about what time of year would be best for you to be without a kitchen.  I don’t recommend having a kitchen redone right before a big event (i.e Thanksgiving, a wedding, a birth) because that can lead to disappointment and having to sacrifice quality for time. Also contractors almost always starts after they say they will. Additionally factor in time for delays in cabinet delivery, countertop templating and installation,  and final punchlist items.

One Final Thing:

There are 3 factors to consider when doing any kind of renovation: price, time and quality. Pick two!

Good luck! A kitchen renovation is almost always a painful experience but fortunately it doesn’t last forever (it only feels like it) and afterwards you will be able to enjoy the space for long time.

I have been periodically working on the mood board for our Master Bedroom. It is still definitely a work in progress, but I thought I would show you some of my selections. I also just found the cutest chair (aka a place to throw all of your clothes). It is from Urban Outfitters and it is upholstered in the Zig Zag Fabric from Premier Prints that I love and the price is quite reasonable. I think if I go with the red curtains this would look great with it. I still need to order some fabric samples. I am also really stuck on the final paint color. I think Gray is one of the hardest colors to pick. All of the paint samples have different undertones and I don’t think I have found the right one yet, even though I have 5 different colors on the way right now! I am also still on the look out for the perfect carpet and duvet.

Retro Industrial Fan, Y Lighting $369

Ceiling Medallion for Fan

PAX Closet w/ Birkeland Doors, IKEA

Simple Nickel Pulls, House of Antique Hardware

Zig Zag Chair, Urban Outfitters $279

Curtain Option: Premier Fabric Chaz Lipstick/White, $9.99 yard

BEST Showroom by Venturi & Rauch. We have 4 panels from this facade

House Industries Letters

We have almost all of the original 123 year old interior door hardware in our house and it is showing its age. We have a reoccurring problem with the hinges, the doors staying shut and the door rosettes breaking. We have done some piecemeal work, but we need to look at the doors as a group and make a decision on what we are going to do. We have 5 regular doors, 4 of which need work (one for each of the 3 bedrooms, one to the basement stairs and one to the upstairs bathroom).  We will also be moving the door to our bedroom about 7″ so that will have to get worked on no matter what.

Door Hinges:

Note the area where the screw have failed in between the door casing and the door frame. This area required quite a bit of fill

Door frame after wood plug is installed

Hinge after "fix". One screw was stripped so it was replaced with a modern brass screw

Special Tool for Installing Wood Plugs into stripped holes

Hinge w/ additional screws

3"x3" cast iron replacement hinge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our Door Hinges are simple 3″x3″ steeple hinges (small by modern standards). Many fancier Victorian houses had more elaborate hinges, sometimes referred to as “Eastlake” style.  I don’t mind ours except for the fact that the placement of the screw holes is very problematic. The holes would be much better if they were closer to the edge. In our case the outer screws end up not into the door frame blocking but in the gap in between the blocking and the trim/casing. I have fixed several of these, but because of this condition it is almost impossible to get a good hold. On one of the doors upstairs the previous owner added screws into the corner of the hinges. They did not do a particularly good job of this, but it is worth considering, over replacing all of the hinges. The only new 3″x3″ hinges that I have found that meet my general requirements are cast iron hinges from Charleston Hardware Co. What are my requirements? The hinges must stylistically match the rest of the hardware, the pins are removable and the screw placement needs to work with our door framing. I made the mistake of buying non-removable pins when I replaced the hinges on the front door and I REALLY regret this.

Wooden Door Knobs:

Wooden door knob and rosette w/ worn casing

Painted Wooden Door Knob, Rosette & Key Hole

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The interior doors all have wooden door knobs (except for the bathroom). At first I thought this was really unusual, but now that I am a lot more familiar with Victorian houses, I have found that at least around here it was fairly common to have wooden door knobs. Many fancier Victorians would have had bronze door knobs with elaborate details. I quite like the feel of our wood knobs. However 2 sets of these were painted and 1 set  was replaced. A couple of months ago I managed to find 3 sets on ebay for a good price, so I bought them and they have been waiting for installation.

Wooden Door Knob Rosettes:

Currently we have wooden door rosettes & key hole escutcheons (with the exception of the bathroom door which must have been replaced in the 1920s or so with a glass knob and metal rosette). I have yet to see another house with wooden rosettes (I am guessing that most of them broke a long time ago).  In case you are wondering, the rosette or escutcheon plate is is the piece that keeps the knob in place, located directly behind the door knob. Often called back plates, the type we have is typically referred to as rosettes because they are round. If you are searching for replacements, it is good to do a search for door rosette, backplate and escutcheon. Most of our door rosettes have split, which leads to the door knob always being loose. This is exacerbated by the screws holding the hinges in place failing causing the door to settle.  I am currently considering several options for the rosettes, both vintage and reproduction. I still haven’t found keyhole escutcheon covers that I like, but since this is mostly cosmetic as I don’t have the skeleton keys for the doors I am not in as big of a hurry to find these. I find that many of the reproduction patterns for door hardware aren’t as crisp as the originals (which really bothers me).  Here are the ones that I am currently considering. Again these are typically listed as antique/reproduction bronze Eastlake door rosettes. The price on these vary quite widely. These 3 are all pretty reasonably priced, although if I go with the antique ones I am going to have to see if Charleston Hardware Co. will sell me the screws that I need (ones that are the right size and not too long so as not to hit the mortise locks which we are not replacing).  All of these are about 2″ in diameter and should work with the wood doorknobs. They also all have daisies on them, which are my favorite flower and match the daisies on the Kitchen mantel and the upstairs stained glass window.

Restored Antique Door Rosettes, $14.00 each

Un-restored Antique Door Rosettes, $55 for 6

Reproduction Door Rosette, $4.95 each

I want to make some full length curtains that will sit on either side of the 2 front windows and go from the bottom of the crown molding to the floor. These would be wide panels and each would cover the window and completely move out of the way on either side when not in use. This way they won’t interfere with the radiator (although I may need to put some snaps on the bottom to shorten them when they are over the window and radiator).

I’ve been scouring fabric stores and websites trying to come up with a fabric that is affordable, has a large pattern, isn’t too busy and comes in either gray or red. The pattern has been a tough choice for me. A lot of the patterns out there that I am drawn too won’t work with the BIG metal panels. I need a pattern that is graphic but isn’t “busy”. It is funny now that I am putting this together that all of my favorites are by Premier Prints Fabrics. They sell their fabrics through their website. Also several other sellers also sell it at a discount (although not all of the fabrics). Fabric.com sell quite a bit of their fabric for about $8-12 a yard. The thing I like about their fabric is that they typically sell them in a number of colorways. Their patterns can be a little trendy but I LOVE  large over-scaled patterns a lot.

I started with these fabrics. Big scale with large flower patterning, fits my modern play on a classic style but not clean enough for the “modern” look the room is taking on.

Curtain Option 1: Premier Prints Victoria Kelp/Linern, $11.99 yard

Curtain Option 2: Premier Prints Suzani Slub Yellow/White, $8.48 yard

Next I tried out some graphic patterns. The ZigZag is very HOT right now. I am a little concerned it could lot dated quickly. I am also concerned that the pattern might be too distracting.

Curtain Option: Premier Prints Zig Zag Ash/White, $11.99 yard

Graphic Curtain Option: Premier Prints Gotcha American Red $8.98 yard

My current favorites are these two options. I like that the pattern is abstract and I think once it is draping that these could look great. If I go with the gray I am going to need to get a sample before I finalize the wall color (so that they have a similar hue). I might just get a sample of both so I can see how bright the red is.

Curtain Option: Premier Pattern Chipper Storm $11.99 yard

Curtain Option: Premier Fabric Chaz Lipstick/White, $9.99 yard

The Ceiling Fan

What do you think?

Victorian/ Vintage Styling

Simple Retro Design Fan, Barn Light Electric $500

Art Deco/Victorian Fan, Barn Light Electric $440

Clean Lined Retro Styling

Simple Retro Clean Lined Fan, Period Arts $328

Retro Industrial Copper Fan, Barn Light Electric $349

Industrial Retro Styling

Retro Industrial Fan, Y Lighting $369

Industrial Double Fan, Y Lighting $499

It is hard to find an attractive ceiling fan!  I know a lot of people who just remove them so that they don’t have to look at them. Our bedroom tends to get stuffy in the shoulder season and I hate to use Air Conditioning when I don’t have to. The room faces due south so it tends to be several degrees warmer than the rest of the house. So we definitely NEED a ceiling fan for our room (and eventually for the kids’ rooms too). Fortunately there are several companies making more attractive ceiling fans now. These are a few that we are considering. This decision is important because it is going to dictate what direction of a lot of the other accessories and furnishings in the room. If we go more Victorian it will be in contrast to the Best Panels. If we go more industrial it will go more with the styling of the Best Panels and be in contrast to the structure of the room.  I’m currently leaning towards more industrial. I also want it to have a light attached, which rules out some of the options.

What do you think? Do you have any suggestions?

Once I decide on the fan, I am going to choose the handles for the closet. I am also currently narrowing down fabric for the windows. Stay tuned.

Here is the previous post on the closets.

Here is the original post with the Best Panels.